CASE 448 Garden Tractor - Continued !

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When I finally sat down and figured out what parts I was going to use in order to get the pump connected to the tank, there was too much stuff in the way. So, I ended up doing a little "rework" on some of the linkage for the additional hydraulic control handles I added to the right side of the tractor that control the new valve I installed under the engine. Interestingly, I ended up with a choice of three differently shaped hoses to use in attempt to connect the pump to the tank. I used the hose that was on the tractor originally. It has just one simple very hard 180 degree bend in it. I bought a new hose from someone, but it looks nothing like the original. I hope I can pick up a spare like this one because I doubt I will find anything anywhere like it except for use in a Case Tractor.

The picture above gives a little better overview of what has been done. Unfortunately, When I was getting the pump to tank connection to work, I had to cut off the tab on the travel valve shaft that allowed the original brake pedal to pull the tractor into neutral. There is no way it would fit. I still want to see if I can find another method to allow the original pedal to put the tractor in neutral. We'll see what I come up with. Worst case scenario is to do it electrically with a selenoid.


Below is the view of the pump cavity from the rear of the tractor. Even with the frame stretch, there sure is not a lot of room in there ! Near the bottom, you can see the nut for the clamp that the foot control shaft is mounted to, and on the right, you can see where I dump the return from the flow control back into the return line. And to think that after it puts in a season of work, I will pull this all apart, tighten everything up and paint it.......

I think I spent a few hours trying to pick the very best spot for the hydraulic oil filter. I really didn't find it, but I did find the second best perfect spot. I didn't want it where it would dump oil all over when I changed it, but, well, thats what I get for only going with a 3.5" frame stretch I guess.

The return tube that runs up and over the engine was made from an original 444 return line. it has a few zigs and zags in it that it didn't need, but it will hold out until I can have another one bent up with the right bender. I am going to put a small gauge just to the right of the filter housing. The throttle and choke cables might get relocated to behind the engine. I have picked up a Kohler control that mounts on the flywheel side, but I need to make sure I have everything I need to do it. It will look a lot better without those controls jumping thru the middle of everything, and I will have better access to the front clutch.


In that above photo, some have felt that with the engine reversed, I may have too much heat going forward to keep the hydro oil as cool as it could be. My Dad thinks it will be fine, but, well, if you have an imagination like I do, you too might be able to imagine a few polished stainless steel shrouds installed to duct the air from the engine up and into the area that surrounds the muffler. From there, I want to duct the heated air out thru the 448 hood scoop, AND/OR, and this is where the real imagination comes in, install a thin ductwork welded to the underside of the hood that leads to the dash area.... With a damper somewhere in the ductwork, and a small vent cut into the very center top of the dash, I can have heat AND defroster in my Cab !


In the photo below, you can see a plug hanging out near the engine. I will be making a bracket to hold it tight to the engine. This has already been wired so I can send two electrical circuits along the front attachment lift rod. What might that entail ? Snowblower chute rotation and chute height control !


Below: Stuff sure gets dirty when it lays around a year waiting for me to work on it ! Here you can see those extra zigs in the return line... I am sure it will work temporarily, but I want one bent up that will be much more attractive for when the tractor gets painted. Back by the Hydro tank, I still have to make small angle brackets to hold the tank from sliding forward. The little round knob just ahead of the brake pedals is my temporary control of the flow control valve. it is mounted such that the handle part faces the inside of the tractor. Someday when i find a reasonably priced rotary cable type control, I will put a knob on the dash to control my flow valve.




Below: Everthing is going to fit pretty nice under the hood ! H'mmmm Looks like that return line is not parallel with the frame.... better look into that !



Below: Plenty of work to do on the sheet metal aspect, thats for sure. I want to fit under the hood at least one gas hood shock to hold it when it is open.


Below: I still have to make a gaurd for the LoveJoy area. Not sure what your seeing there, but I am thinking something "polished" might look good.... <G> At least I will be able to swap out the love Joy link without removing anything. And, I might have to ! I lined this think up as good as I possible could have when I made the brackets. If it wears quickly though, I certainly have enough movement to shim anything that will help the coupling last. We'll see how that holds out.

I also need to make a flanged adapter for the exhaust to come out the side of the tractor. I'm "over" the vertical big tractor style exhaust.... This one is going to be "non evasive"... I had enough hitting tree limbs and sitting in exhaust fumes. (as you can probably tell by this project :-). Not sure what I will come up with to exit the exhaust.... A lot of it depends on what I find in the junk drawers if you know what I mean.. Going out the front thru the "Bump" seems to beg for burned paint down the road. I might come straight out thru the bump to the side, maybe lining up internally, the exhaust pipe with a stainless steel boat "Thru Hull" fitting.


Thats going to wrap things up for now. I bought a different travel valve (again) to see if I can find one with the centering springs on both spools for the valve under the tractor. It sure seems like Case had quite a variety of travel valves. Once I get that valve swapped, I suppose I should pull the rear axle open and look over the differential bolts, and also upon reassembly, stick in the anti freewheeling valve right away. THEN maybe I can dump some oil in it and see IF it even works !


I have a lot to do yet.... the rear fenders have to be widened, and lights frenched into the front and rear flats. I can run my Tiller from the extra front travel valve, but I will be scouring the rear of this tractor to see where I can bury yet another hydraulic control, maybe another travel valve. Anyone ever put THREE travel valves on a Case yet ???

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