1980 case 448 Restoration - Page 3

I have installed various versions of my foot control design on a few tractors now, each with minor improvements. The newest design pretty much nails it. On this restoration, I was able to take advantage of the fact that the tractor was apart, and I could weld in places inconspicuous from the outside, though note that I have installed this design on completely assembled tractors with almost the same ease. The photo below shows the final foot lever design. The "tail" on the left end is left long so a small rod can be attached such that used with a spring, acts as a self centering method.
 
NewFoot.jpg

That "pedal" is just some 1" wide x 1/4" thick steel flat bar, cut, heated, twisted and bent to suit. The notch on the toe end is configured to let you fit a rubber protector over the pedal... I use one from a Yamaha V-Star's shift lever. If you don't have an acetylene torch (I don't), MAPP gas works just fine for this.

Heatnbend.JPG

I will leave you with one last picture of the finished pedal. I have a separate write up on the whole foot control method that can be found here if you are interested.

selfcenteringA.JPG

With the repairs and modifications out of the way, its time for paint prep. This is a lot of work in itself. Not only do you need to make sure you sand out any imperfections, which in my case, I decided to strip the pain completely, you have to take time to build some jigs and fixtures to hold the parts while you prime and paint them. If you want to paint it all in one event, this means the rear axle has to be hanging, the hood must be mounted to something that allows you to paint the inside and then close it to paint the top. You also need to build a makeshift rotisserie to hold the frame so you can rotate it from bottom to top as you process thru the various coats of paint. Here you can see my bare frame. Because the factory never laid down any primer, these tractors usually exhibit a lot of areas that need deep feathering. As such, I find that it is easier to remove all the paint rather than try to feather the old paint decent enough to not be seen under the top coats. I use spray can, aviation paint stripper to remove the paint. It goes on so easily, you can shoot over areas that seem to have slowed, and it really works fast.

FrameBare.jpg

Once down to bare metal, it seems easier to clean up the metal with 3M metal conditioning pads and the conventional DA sander than to deal with any old paint.
The more time you spend getting the parts smooth and clean, the better the outcome will be.

Here you can see all the parts jigged or hung, ready for primer and eventually paint. I don't have much for a "shop"... its only 18' wide x 20' deep. This is NOT enough room to really do this in unless your really careful. Once you start spraying and relocating parts to new areas, you really have to watch that you don't walk into anything. I just keep reminding myself that amazing things came out of the little shed in the movie, the worlds fastest Indian.........

MostPartsJigged.jpg

When it came time to prime, I had to do it in more than one event. The larger parts shown below, and then I came back and did all the really small parts like brake parts, hydraulic lines/tubes... that kind of stuff. I lay down a thin base layer of epoxy primer, then follow up with a high fill 2 part urethane primer.

Prime1.jpg



Prime2.jpg

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When it came time for paint, I also did that in two events. The first event was essentially the frame and rear axle. This way I could set the frame back onto the rear axle, and with the help of a spare front axle, put the tractor on wheels so I could roll it out of the way and have more room for all the small parts.

BTW, I found that if you hang the rear axle up with straps that will let you later lower it, you can drop it far enough to mount the wheels back on it, and roll it under the frame for re installation. One guy can really do it all if you plan ahead.

RollingChassis.jpg

When it came to the paint used, I just used Power red directly from a Case dealer. This is acrylic enamel, so I used some acrylic enamel hardener in it. I will say that it is a real EYE OPENER when you open a gallon can of Power Red and gaze into it. Almost mesmerizing for an addict (Case GT addict that is).

The next photo is the second event. All the small stuff with the tractor outside.

SecondEvent.jpg

All that little stuff below is time consuming to get it right !

TimeConsuming.jpg

After a few days of drying time (I had other things going on), I got around to cleaning up the shop and start assembling ! That's what we will cover next.

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